From its perch atop a rocky outcropping, this whitewashed fishing town gazes down seductively at the Tyrrhenian Sea.

To the east, a long beach of fine sand runs towards the villa of the emperor Tiberius, built into a natural cave where ancient Romans would feast.

These days the local speciality, tiella di gaeta, is a stuffed pizza-like pie. It was traditionally given to farmers and fishermen who could not go home for lunch.

While it usually contains tomatoes, olives and capers, as well as chilli, there are numerous incarnations, which can include courgette, aubergine, anchovy and onion.. Legend has it that Frederick IV who ruled the Neapolitan Republic during the 16th century, was so impressed with Tiella that he created a few flavours himself.

The homely Ricciola Saracena osteria does an excellent version of the most famous variety of tiella di gaeta — octopus — using only local ingredients. It is best washed down with a chilled glass of cori, the local white wine.
Via Porta Piccola della Chiesa

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